Savile Row is the Mount Olympus of males’s tailoring. Properly-dressed males from all over the world journey to London in hopes of going from mere mortals to tailor-made gods with a brand new custom-made swimsuit. And even if you cannot make it to the Row, there are many suitmakers all over the world who can whip you up a customized job. However whereas these codes of custom-made males’s tailoring personal the hearts of conventional dapper dandies worldwide, there’s solely a lot you are able to do with an adjusted hem or fitted waist to remain modern. What occurs if you would like one thing new? You may change the garment, however giving it a complete new look to remain feeling recent? That’s exterior of the norm.
That’s, till Steven Passaro got here alongside. After graduating from the London Faculty of Style two years in the past, the Paris-based designer set out with a imaginative and prescient to problem the principles of bespoke menswear by reworking what it means to have a singular garment. By its very definition, bespoke means a degree of customization. However there are stark limits to how the garment may be reworked. And whereas Passaro rapidly pays respect to those traditions, his curiosity in reinventing bespoke has introduced him to create a brand new methodology of personalization within the menswear sphere.
“I truly simply watched a documentary about Savile Row,” he says. “ and I at all times look to tailors for steering as a result of I’m a freak in relation to how issues match.” In mid-March, Passaro launched his second assortment, a severely romantic group of items together with an extended black jacket outfitted with a basting element, a hand-crafted silk veil, a three-layered plissé trouser, and a double-breasted velvet sequined jacket. However whereas the small print and well-cut items allude to Passaro’s deep talent in craftsmanship, a brand new idea—he calls them “Evolutive Clothes—suggests a brand new method to bespoke menswear.
Say you like certainly one of Passaro’s trench coats. To get one, you go right into a becoming, the place the designer measures it to your physique. After it’s delivered, you put on it out and really feel such as you’re the king of moody climate. A 12 months goes by, and like many clothes, the ditch coat’s splendor fades a bit. It’s pure. However as an alternative of shopping for a complete new coat and going via the ache of discovering that good match, you’ll be able to take the piece again to Passaro. There, he’ll flip the coat into one thing nearly new by inserting a custom-made add-on. You already know the sensation you get while you discover a new technique to type your favourite pair of sneakers? It’s like that, however for the remainder of your closet.
The demonstration on his website illustrates an possibility of including a contemporary-shaped plate of textile, or a sash-like aspect to the headband, however the designer assures that the choices are malleable. “I’m at all times altering like a river. And I’m additionally a Pisces, so I’m very emotional,” Passaro jokes. “However, like myself, persons are continually rising and altering, too. Individuals’s style in garments can take many dips and I needed to create one thing that will create a longer-lasting reference to our garments.”