Hood By Air, certainly one of vogue’s most beloved manufacturers and a potent image of the younger New York avant-garde, formally introduced its return final summer season, although it has unfolded much less as an outright comeback and extra like a bit of multipart vogue theatre during which every curtain elevate reveals a brand new narrative within the model’s quest for vogue dominance.
The primary chapter of that period continues immediately, with the drop of a brand new assortment referred to as Veteran, the subsequent step within the model’s self-titled “Prologue” period, which HBA entered upon its relaunch.
“The inspiration behind Veteran is kind of easy,” designer Shayne Oliver tells GQ. “This assortment is supposed to cleanse the palate in addition to introduce a recent cohesive style to the which means of a ‘gown code.’ In Between H13A and additional into the total Genesis Prologue Period, this assortment additionally serves as an expensive precursor within the type of a uniform.” (H13A is a challenge launched on the finish of final summer season to construct a dwelling archive designs launched by the model over its 13 yr historical past.)
The uniform HBA is enjoying with right here is that of the surveillance state—one T-shirt bears a picture of a dizzying stack of surveillance cameras, with the phrase “PIG” beneath; a elegant blousy nylon hoodie carries the picture of a police badge tweaked with the language of Hood By Air; and a pair of layered cargo shorts, like those cops put on through the summer season, have a bullseye on the crotch. (After all, HBA’s are comprised of superb Italian twill as a substitute of polyester.) It’s a basic expression of Oliver’s style for vengeful vogue appropriation, following one of many major guidelines of the HBA artwork of conflict: don the visage—or tactical cargo shorts—of your enemy to defeat them.